Broken or leaking transmission lines can effect severe damage to the transmission.
The transmission coolant lines route the transmission fluid from the radiator, under the leading chassis frame and concluded the transmission housing. Transmission fluid enters one side of the bottom radiator core and returns to the transmission in a continual loop. The lines, if Supple or dense, can convert damaged by blow under the vehicle by crushing forces or breakage. Transmission coolant lines can leak at their connexion points, either at the radiator or at the transmission housing. A do-it-yourself mechanic can transform any or all of the transmission coolant lines with some especial tools in a sporadic steps.
Instructions
1. Shift the vehicle into grounds and locate the emergency brake. Hoist the hood. Lift the vehicle with a floor jack altitudinous Sufficiently to country two jack stands under the frame at the front limitation near Everyone rotate. Lift the rear of the vehicle and corner two and jack stands under the rear detail of the frame near Everyone trundle.
2. Spray penetrating oil over all of the transmission limit connexion points. This includes any hose clamps holding Supple hoses to burdensome lines, such as the hoses to the radiator connections and extremely the dense border flared nuts attached to the transmission housing. Spray the oil several times and allow it to saturate the connection points for 10 to 15 minutes. Wipe off all excess oil with a shop rag.
3. Locate the transmission coolant lines where they enter the bottom of the radiator. For flexible hose lines that fit onto a solid inlet nozzle, use a slotted screwdriver or small socket to loosen the hose clamps. Pull the lines free and let the fluid drain into a pan.7. Run the engine and add fluid to the top of the transmission dipstick filler tube. Be careful not to overfill the transmission, bringing the level up to the "hot" line on the dipstick when the engine has warmed up.
Identify the transmission lines where they enter the side of the transmission housing. These fittings will almost certainly be metal nuts that attach to threaded nipples. Use the line wrench on these nuts and be careful to remove them without excess force. Use penetrating oil if they appear to be frozen. When detached, drain the fluid into a pan.
5. Locate all of the transmission line supports that follow the main part of the frame. Most will have single bolts holding a pressure flange. Some of the pressure flanges might have rubber (shock) inserts. Be careful not to lose these as they will fit back into the flange and support the new lines/hoses. Any of the rubber supports that show wear or are broken should be replaced. You can obtain these rubber inserts at your dealer's parts store or warehouse. After removing all of the line supports, simply drop the transmission lines down and pull them free of the vehicle.
6. Position the new hoses, starting at the radiator bottom. To make it easier, you might want to install a few mounting flanges to hold up the weight of the transmission lines so they can be aligned properly. Reattach the front hoses to the radiator nozzles, securing the clamps with the slotted screwdriver. Move to the back of the vehicle and twist the new line connector nuts on by hand first then tighten them with the line wrench. Finish installing the rest of the mounting flanges, sandwiching the rubber inserts into their cradles.
If you want to remove the hard lines (if so equipped) that bolt onto the bottom of the radiator, use a six-point line wrench. Be very careful when using the line wrench--if the metal line begins to bend before the nut loosens, soak the connection with more penetrating oil.4. Check for leaks.
