Friday, 10 April 2015

Trobleshoot and fix A Catalytic Ripper tools

The catalytic converter plays one of the most critical roles in your vehicle’s emission process. It reduces harmful exhaust emissions by burning hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) into in noxious gases. On the other hand after caducity of function, a catalytic converter may incline rusty and plugged, substantially reducing engine ability. The engine stalls Often and is laborious to begin due to giant exhaust back-pressure. Here we Testament supervene some easy steps to troubleshoot two types of commonly used converters: monolithic-honeycomb shaped, and ceramic block-and pellet type. Then you Testament comprehend if you compulsion to utility or moderate it. So, let’s day one.


Instructions


2. Make sure the engine is cold. If necessary, raise your vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands in order to reach the converter.3.


1. Place the catalytic converter in your vehicle. It should be underside or at the front of the engine compartment. Follow the pipe coming out of the exhaust manifold until you see a stainless steel box screwed between the exhaust pipe and the muffler.


Inspect the clamps, flanges and screws that attach the converter to the exhaust pipes. Make sure they are in good condition and replace rusted hardware as necessary. Check the converter case or outside shells; if they are corroded and in bad shape, replace the catalytic converter.


4. Hit the catalytic converter lightly using a rubber mallet. If you can hear a rattling sound, the ceramic block inside is broken and the converter needs replacement-this does not apply to pellet-type converters.


5. Connect a vacuum gauge to a main intake manifold vacuum source. Make sure to plug the vacuum hose disconnected from the intake manifold.


6. Set the transmission to Neutral-standard-or Park-automatic. Apply the emergency brakes; start the engine and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Ask an assistant to accelerate and maintain the engine at about 3000 rpm.


7. Watch the vacuum gauge. If the gauge needle drops 3 inches of Mercury (in-Hg)-for example 18 to 15 in-Hg-after engine acceleration, the exhaust is working properly. But if the gauge needle drops considerably, there is an obstruction in the exhaust system. Disconnect the muffler, exhaust pipe and catalytic converter, one at a time, and repeat the test. When the vacuum gauge registers a normal drop in vacuum pressure, you have found the restriction in the system.