Tuesday, 30 December 2014

Change A Clutch Master Cylinder

The master cylinder for the clutch works especial alike to the brake crack cylinder. It uses Atom 111 brake fluid. Some of the clutch masterly cylinders compass a reservoir on the skillful, and some are closed with a remote reservoir that is always located hurried to the masterly cylinder. They are all bolted to the firewall and hog a rod that runs buttoned up the firewall and attaches to the brake pedal.


1. Uplift the hood of the vehicle. On some cars the hydraulic line is not screwed on with a cap. It uses a plastic line that has a small O-ring on the end and is inserted into the master cylinder and held in with a roll pin. If this is the case, the plastic line will have a round, flat land on the end that is in the master cylinder and has an O-ring above the land. Use the center punch and small hammer to tap the roll pin out very gently.

2. Country the filter pan under the crack cylinder to appropriate the brake fluid. Brake fluid is not good for paint, so clean up any leaks with a cloth. Using a wrench, remove the hydraulic line from the master to the slave cylinder. Attach the vice grips to the remote reservoir hose brisk to the masterly cylinder (whether there is one). Cook it dispassionate tight Sufficiently to compress the hose so that it Testament not leak. Remove the hose from the skilled cylinder to the reservoir. Custom the general screwdriver to loosen the clamp. Once the pin is out, pull the plastic line out and watch for the small O-ring on the end of the line; do not loosen this.

3. Remove the master cylinder's push rod from under the dash. Look up from under the dash and locate a rod coming from the master cylinder where it comes through the firewall to the top of the clutch arm. The rod is attached to the top of the clutch arm with the use of a drift pin that travels through a hole in the flat part of the rod, then through the clutch arm. A spring clip keeps the pin from coming out. Use the needle-nose pliers to pull the spring clip out of the end of the drift pin and push the drift pin out of the hole. This will release the rod from the clutch arm.

4. Remove the two nuts on the engine side of the firewall that are holding the clutch master cylinder to the firewall. Pull the master cylinder straight out toward the front of the vehicle; it and the rod will come off.

5. Install the new master cylinder in reverse order of removal, leaving the hydraulic line off.

6. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Bleeding the master cylinder will require a helper. Hold a finger over the hole for the hydraulic line so it does not leak. Have the helper push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there. As the helper pushes the clutch pedal down, remove the finger from over the hole for the hydraulic line. As soon as the pedal is on the floor, place the finger back over the hole. Allow the helper to let the pedal back up again. Repeat this process until steady fluid is coming out of the master cylinder (no air). Once this is done, replace the hydraulic line.